Honey Powder

Ready for another
Product Review?

And today's topic is: Honey Powder

Honey powder - lets cover the basics:  This text is taken directly from the container.

Directions: use as a sweetener on hot cereals, substitute for sugar or honey in recipes

Liquid Honey Substitution: Honey Powder - Example: 1 c. liquid honey is equal to 1 c. honey powder and 1/4 c. water

Re-hydration: Slowly add 1/4 c. cold water to 1 c. honey powder.  Mix well.  Heat mixture on low to dissolve sugars.  Place in a covered jar and cool.  Use as you would fresh honey.

Ingredients: Honey powder (honey, refinery syrup), fructose.

Contents can be stored for 10-15 years under proper storage conditions.

Lets make some!


 Start with your powder... add the water... and you are left with this:

It is a runny, crystallized looking liquid about the consistency of heavy cream.
Next, heat to remove the crystals (I microwave 1c. of honey for 2-3 minutes, stirring a few times throughout).
Liquid should be crystal free when heated sufficiently.

**This is a very important step!

If the honey has ANY crystals in it they will sink to the bottom.  Over time, they will turn into a waxy substance that is unedible and will most likely ruin the honey.
Be sure it is totally clear before you stop heating.

This is regular honey on the left, and powdered honey on the right, before it has ben heated to remove the crystals.

See how its all cloudy?

This is powdered honey (on the left) after it has been heated.

 The color turns from bright yellow to dark amber, and the consistency is that of maple syrup.  It should be clear, without any crystals.

Now that it's made, lets do a Quality Check:
- Smell: Minor difference, I probably wouldn't notice if I didn't have regular honey to compare it to.

- Taste: Noticably different, but close enough for it NOT to matter.  To me, it tastes artificially sweeter than regular honey, but good enough that I'd eat it on a piece of bread.

- Texture: The same, although not quiet as thick as regular honey - about the consistency of maple syrup.

- Color: Dark brown/amber.  Regular honey is gold.

- How long does it last once it's been made?
After one month crystals will begin to form on the bottom.
The honey will continue to crystallize on the bottom as time passes (I let it sit for 3 months).
The crystals will not go away after reheating (I brought it to a boil and they were still there).
The taste and texture of the honey is the same.
I am sure it will last several months, continuing to crystallize, without any taste difference, but because it lasts so much longer as a powder, I chose not to experiment after 3 months.

Okay, now lets get down to the facts:

First, how much do you get?
~ 7 1/2 cups of powder, which equals 7 1/2 cups of honey.
By the way, it comes in a #10 size can, but it is based upon weight, so don't be suprised when you find that it is only about 1/2 way full.

Ok, lets talk Price:
I just bought 80oz. (10 cups) of regular clover honey for about $20.00 (on sale).
A can of honey powder runs about $9.00, and as we've discussed, provides about 7.5 cups.
So yes, it is cheaper than regular honey. Almost half as much.

What about Shelf Life?
10-15 years under proper storage conditions.
Real honey has an indefinate shelf life (but that doesn't mean it does not have a 'best if used before date', so keep that in mind).

So... Is it worth it?
In my mind, yes.  It (along with real honey) is a pantry staple at our house.
I use it consistently for cooking - mostly for making granola.  I like it better for cooking because it isn't as thick as real honey, which makes it easier to incorporate with the other ingredients.
That, and it is cheaper!

**UPDATED 11/10/13
I decided to update this post because this particular brand of honey powder is no longer available in stores.  I wanted to provide a link to the honey crystals that I use now.  They are a higher quality than what I posted about above, and they also have more honey in each #10 can.  You can purchase it online as well, so location is no longer an issue.  You can view the product at the link below:
Thrive Honey Crystals

First Aid - Order of Priority

In EVERY emergency situation, there is a logical order that should be followed to ensure the safety of yourself and others, as well as efficiently providing help to those in need.

1. Assess the scene of the accident:

- First, carefully assess the scene for any signs of danger. You will not be able to help anyone if you become injured yourself.

2. Make the area safe:

- Ensure that it is safe to treat the casualties at the site. For example, at the site of a road accident you will need to stop the flow of traffic.

3. Assess the situation:

- Watch for any signs of continuing danger, to yourself and others.

- Make a first assessment of the casualties – is anybody in immediate danger?

- Is there anybody else on the scene that might be able to assist you?

- Do you need to call emergency services? If so, do so immediately. If there are bystanders, ask someone specifically to do it for you.

4. Assess and assist the casualties:

- Quiet casualties should always be your first priority: Quiet casualties may be an indication that the person is unconscious, meaning they could be in the most serious condition.

- Assist casualties in order of most serious condition, using these guidelines:

- Check casualties for Response: Is the casualty conscious?

- Check casualties for Airway: Can the casualty breathe?

- Check casualties for Breathing: Is the casualty breathing normally?

- Provide first aid where applicable. In every instance where first aid is to be provided, it is important to always ask a conscious victim for permission to help them. When dealing with unconscious victims, it is presumed that they have provided their consent.

5. Further actions:

- Maintain the dignity of the victims; for example, by screening them from view

- Administer general help and support, offering reassurance and so on

- Stay on the scene until medical help arrives

References: 1. BBC (online). April 2007. Available at http://www.bbc.co.uk/health/first_aid/procedures_index/sceneofanaccident.shtml. Accessed January 15, 2009. 2. Captain Daves Survival Center (online). Order of Priority in an Emergency. Available at http://www.survival-center.com/firstaid/order.htm. Accessed January 15, 2009.

Wheat Flour - how long does it last?

 The first time I made wheat flour I made about 20 lbs. worth.

I kept it in a poly bucket, just like all of my other dried foods.

I would use it sparingly, since I wasn't used to it and I didn't prefer the taste.

About 1 1/2 years later, I went to a bread making class where the instructor taught that wheat flour only lasts about a week.

I ended up dumping my entire bucket of flour out after I made a loaf of whole wheat bread that ended up turning into a rock after baking (not to mention the fact that it didn't rise).

Several other similar experiences with friends and family over the years convinced me to do the following experiment:

I made wheat flour once a week, over a period of 6 weeks.

Older flour was put into bags and stored in my pantry.

Then I made 6 loaves of bread, each with flour made on a specific day.

Each loaf followed the exact same recipe, had the same amount of rising time, and cooked for the same amount of time.

This is what I found...

Let me explain the numbers, because I should have done them differently.

The loaf without a number was made from fresh wheat flour - ground the same day.

#2 loaf is a week old flour, #3 is 2 weeks old, going up to #6, which is 5 week old flour.  You with me?

Okay, here's a closer look:

Surprisingly to me, they all looked relatively similar (size wise).

But they definitely were not the same.

Loaves 1, 2 and 3 (fresh, 1 week, and 2 week old flour) seemed to weigh less than Loaves 4, 5 and 6.

The older the wheat flour was, the harder and more dense the bread.

This was especially noticeable while shaping.

When kneading the fresh flour dough, it was extremely elastic and flexible; very easy to work with.

The older flour dough became progressively harder to handle.  It was very difficult to even knead the 5 week old flour dough - it would crack easily and quiet frankly just didn't want to cooperate.

Loaves 4, 5 and 6 also had a drier looking crust.  If I knocked my fist on the tops of them, it would make a knocking sound.  When I did the same thing on Loaves 1, 2 and 3, the dough would 'give', making an indent of my knuckles, and then popping back up again.

Basically, loaves 4, 5 and 6 had no give.

Here is a shot of loaf #6 next to the freshly made loaf:

You can see by the amount of browning on the side (where I wrote 6) that it didn't rise as much as the fresh loaf did.  It also had several cracks and uneven lumps, not to mention the overall dry appearance.

Here is a top view:

 

This is a really good representation of how dry and unappetizing it looked.

After cutting each loaf open, again, they all looked the same.

Taste and texture were extremely different.

The older the flour, the drier the bread.  Loaf #6 was crumbling all over the place.  There was no moisture.

Here is a good example of what I mean:

This is me holding a piece of bread from the fresh wheat flour loaf:

Do you see how it bends?

The bread was moist and flexible.

This is a piece from loaf #6:

 

There is no give, no flexibility, and no moisture... it even started to crack down the middle.

I tried a bite from a slice of each loaf.

They all tasted the same, but the quality wasn't nearly as good, especially when eating from loaves 3-6.

Eating from loaf #6 was like eating week old bread; it was very dry, crumbled easily, and almost had a powdery texture.

Although from the outside, loaf #3 (2 week old flour) looked and felt the same as 1 and 2, it was not nearly as moist or flexible once I cut into it.

There were minor differences between loaves 1 (fresh) and 2 (1 week), probably nothing I would have noticed had I not been experimenting.

So... my conclusion is that wheat flour definitely makes major, unwanted changes after about 1 week of being ground.

The recipe I used is from Pantry Secrets, and can be found here, along with an explanation of ingredients used.

I make my own bread from scratch regularly (with white flour), using Pantry Secret's recipe, which does have some minor changes compared to the wheat bread (all appropriate information is covered in the link above).

My point is, this recipe doesn't call for Vital Wheat Gluten, which is a common ingredient used in bread which helps make it rise better and become more 'airy', if you will.

I don't know what kind of differences it would make if you used vital wheat gluten when making bread with older wheat flour.  I am sure it would improve the bread, but I'm not sure by how much.

Another thing to consider is if refrigerating or freezing the flour would make it last longer.  I didn't try this, nor will I, because I don't use wheat flour enough to want to store it under those conditions.

Either way, the differences in bread made with flour older than a week were significant in my opinion.

I will definitely be using all of my wheat flour within a week from now on.

Basic Preparedness Checklist

The task of emergency and home preparedness can be extremely overwhelming if you think about the whole thing at once.

Becoming prepared, whether spiritually or physically, is a process, not an event.

I had several checklists from varying sources lying around.

So... I combined them all to make a Preparedness Checklist to help me evaluate my strengths and weaknesses.

This is a pretty basic list, and I hope to cover most of these in better detail later, but this is a good tool for giving you a better idea of where you stand.

Try picking one question at a time (or one category), until you feel you've met the needs of you and your family.

I have separated the questions into the following categories:

Creating an Emergency Plan

Local Preparedness

Fire Safety

Prepare a Supplies Kit

Prepare an Emergency Car Kit

Home Evacuation

Home Protection

Natural Disasters

Communication

Prolonged Emergencies

Some questions are used more than once since they overlap categories, but you get the idea...

Creating an Emergency Plan:

1. Meet with household members.  Discuss with children the dangers of fire, severe weather, earthquakes and other emergencies.
2. Discuss how to respond to each disaster that could occur.
3. Discuss what to do about power outages and personal injuries.
4. Draw a floor plan of your home.  Mark two escape routes from each room.
5. Post emergency telephone numbers near telephones.
6. Teach children how and when to call 911, police and fire.
7. Instruct household members to turn on the radio for emergency information.
8. Teach children how to make long distance telephone calls in case they need to call the out-of-state contact.
9. Pick two meeting places: 1 near your home in case of a fire, and one outside of your neighborhood in case you cannot return home after a disaster.
10. Take a basic first aid and CPR class.
11. Keep family records in a water and fire-proof container.

Local Preparedness:

(Call your emergency management office or American Red Cross for help)

1. Find out what disasters could occur in your area.
2. Ask how to prepare for each disaster.
3. Ask how you would be warned of an emergency.
4. Learn your community's evacuation routes.
5. Ask about special assistance for elderly or disabled persons.
6. Ask your workplace / school / day care about emergency plans.

Fire Safety:

1. Plan two escape routes out of each room.
2. Teach family members to stay low to the ground when escaping from a fire.
3. Teach family members never to open doors that are hot.  In a fire, feel the bottom of the door with the palm of your hand.  If it is hot, do not open the door.  Find another way out.
4. Install smoke detectors. Clean and test smoke detectors once a month.  Change batteries t least once a year.
5. Keep a whistle in each bedroom to awaken household members in case of a fire.
6. Check electrical outlets.  Do not overload outlets.
7. Purchase a fire extinguisher (5lb., A-B-C type).
8. Have a coolapsible ladder on each upper floor of your house.
9. Consider installing home sprinklers.

Prepare a Supplies Kit:

Assemble supplies you might need in an evacuation.  Store items in an easy to carry container such as a backpack or duffle bag.  

Include the following:

1. A supply of water
2. A supply of non-perishable packaged or canned food and a non-electric can opener.
3. A change of clothing, rain gear and sturdy shoes.
4. Blankets or sleeping bags.
5. A first aid kit and prescription medications.
6. An extra pair of glasses/contacts.
7. A battery-powered radio, flashlight and plenty of extra batteries.
8. Credit cards and cash.
9. An extra set of car keys.
10. A list of family physicians.
11. A list of important family information; the style and serial number of medical devices such as pacemakers.
12. Special items for infants, elderly or disabled family members.
13. Personal hygiene items.

Prepare an Emergency Car Kit:

Include the following:

1. Battery powered radio and extra batteries
2. Flashlight and extra batteries
3. Blanket
4. Booster cables
5. Fire extinguisher (5 lb., A-B-C type)
6. First aid kit and manual
7. Bottled water and non-perishable high energy foods such as granola bars, raisins and peanut butter.
8. Maps
9. Shovel
10. Tire repair kit ad pump
11. Flares

Home Evacuation:

1. Has your family rehearsed fire escape routes from your home?
2. Do you have working smoke alarms in the proper places to warn you of fire?
3. Draw a floor plan of your home.  Mark two escape routes from each room.
4. Do you have access to an operational flashlight in every occupied bedroom? (The use of candles is not recommended unless you are sure there is no leaking gas).
5. Do you keep shoes near your bed to protect your feet against broken glass?
6. Do you have duplicate keys and copies of important insurance and other papers stored outside your home?
7. If you and your family had to evacuate, have you identified an outside meeting place?
8. Do you have access to a 72 hour evacuation kit?
9. Do you have a first aid kit included in your 72 hour kit and in each car?
10. Do you have emergency cash on hand?  (During emergencies Banks and ATM's are closed).
11. Do you have a battery powered radio so you can follow instructions of local officials to emergency shelter locations?
12. Do you have protective clothing and sturdy shoes available for each member of the family?
13. Don't forget to lock your house.
14. If able to, let others know when you left and where you are going.
15. Make arrangements for pets.  Animals may not be allowed in public shelters.
16. Use travel routes specified by local officials.

Home Protection:

1. If a water line was ruptured or contaminated do you know how to shut off the main water line to your house?
2. Can this water valve be turned off by hand without the use of a tool?  Do you have a tool if one is needed?
3. Do you know where the main gas shut-off valve to your house is located?
4. If you smell gas do you know how to shut off the valve?  Do you have the proper tool(s)?
5. Do you know how to safely restart your furnace when gas is safely available?
6. Do you have working smoke alarms in the proper places to warn you of fire? 
7. In case of a minor fire, do you have a fire extinguisher that you know how to operate? (The fire department will test yours for free)

Natural Disasters:

1. Does your family know what to do before, during and after an earthquake or other emergency situation? (See first part of the phone book yellow pages)
2. Do you have heavy objects hanging over beds that can fall during an earthquake?
3. Do you have access to an operational flashlight in every occupied bedroom? (The use of candles is not recommended unless you are sure there is no leaking gas).
4. Do you keep shoes near your bed to protect your feet against broken glass?
5. Without electricity and gas do you have the means to heat at least part of your house? (Think of ways to cover broken windows).

Communication:

1. Do you have a functional emergency radio to receive emergency information?
2. Have you established an out of state contact?
3. Have you established a local contact?
4. Have you established a 'nearest relative' contact?
5. Does each member of your family have access to these numbers?  As well as family phone numbers for the home, cell, work, school, physicians, etc.
6. If all communication is unavailable, have you established reunion locations?  Start with one right outside of your home, and then another away from the neighborhood.

Prolonged Emergencies:

(If an emergency lasted for three days (72 hours) before help was available to you and your family)

1. Would you have sufficient food?
2. Would you have the means to cook food without gas and electricity?
3. Would you have sufficient water for drinking, cooking and sanitary needs?
4. Do you have access to a 72 hour evacuation kit?  For each member of your family?
5. Would you be able to carry/transport these kits?
6. Do you have a first aid kit in your home and in each car?
7. Do you have work gloves and some tools for minor rescue and clean-up?
8. Do you have emergency cash on hand?  (During emergencies Banks and ATM's are closed).
9. If you need medications, do you have a month's supply on hand?
10. Without electricity and gas do you have the means to heat at least part of your house? (Think of how to cover broken windows).
11. Do you have a plan for toilet facilities if there were an extended water shortage?
12. Do you have a supply of food, slothing and fuel where appropriate?  For 2 weeks, 3 months, 6 months, a year?

My 5 Rules of Food Storage

There are several systems and helpful hints for getting started on food storage,
some of which I hope to cover later.

Whatever you decide to do,
the most important thing is to find what system works best for you.

However, in my opinion there are important rules to food storage, that should be followed no matter what system you use.

These are my 5 personal rules of food storage:

1. Anything is better than nothing
2. Buy what you eat
3. Rotate
4. Prioritize
5. Eat what you store

RULE #1: Anything is Better than Nothing

The idea of food storage can seem overwhelming. 

And costly. 

And time consuming.
Especially if it seems that you have no food in your pantry, and no resources to get it.
The most important thing is to start by setting small, realistic goals.

For a person who has no food storage, a year's supply can seem too unattainable.
Those who know nothing about what to store or how to store it can become overwhelmed by the idea.

Whether it is something as small as buying one additional item per shopping trip, or simply educating yourself, the idea is to start somewhere.
Anything is better than nothing.

RULE #2: Buy What You Eat
What does that mean?
If you don't eat wheat, let alone even know how to prepare it, don't store 500 lbs. of it in your basement.

My idea of food storage isn't cracked wheat and powdered milk, unless that is what you enjoy and are used to eating on a daily basis.
Especially in the beginning stages, stocking food that is meant to be stored only for emergency purposes should not be your priority.

Food Storage should start with what you eat regularly, on a daily basis.


Don't know what to store?
Try looking at your grocery list.
What items do you find yourself continually purchasing on a week to week, month to month basis?

Obviously fresh fruits, vegetables, meats and produce can go bad quickly, so think about non-perishable items at first.

I like to think of it as having a 'backup' for everything.
When you are about to run out of something, you put it on your grocery list, right?
Next time you are at the store, pick up two of them instead of one.
When you use up one of the two items, put it on your list again.
You're doing the same thing you've always done, but now you have an extra in your pantry.

Repeat this same process (buying an additional item when shopping), until you have the desired amount; enough to last you a week, a month, and eventually a year.

And yes, I do realize that this sounds a lot easier than it really is.  

Doubling everything in your pantry is like doubling your grocery bill.

Remember, make small goals at first.

Shop for sales, buy in bulk, use a coupon...  Whatever you do, start somewhere.

RULE #3: Rotation
Rotation simply implies that you use the oldest item first.

For me, items in my pantry are organized by stacking one on top of the other, or they are put into rows.
When I buy new items, they are put away in the back of the row, or on the bottom of the stack.
When I use an item it is taken from the front of the row or the top of the stack.
This ensures that I always use the oldest item first.

This also requires you to get organized.  I find that an organized pantry generally means more room for food, and it is easier to find everything.

Be mindful of expiration dates.
Just because you bought a case of canned goods last month, don't assume the expiration date is automatically sooner than the case you bought this month.
Many items are on sale for a reason - they are soon to expire.

Another good tip is to label items.
This is especially relevant when you get into longer-term food storage.
Bagged items like rice and wheat are often put into separate containers when brought home from the grocery stores (not to mention they store better that way).
And foods packaged specifically for food storage (like #10 cans), unless purchased from the cannery, don't have a date on them at all.
I prefer to label all items in these categories with the month/day and year that I purchased it, but I know some people prefer to date them with their tentative expiration or use-by date.
Find whatever works best for you.

RULE #4: Prioritize
I am talking mostly about what types of foods to store, and when.

For example: I remember testing out my food storage supply by not going grocery shopping.
After a few months I was wondering what I was doing with all of that ketchup, and why I didn't have anything stored that I could actually put it on.

Every family will have different priorities, but I classify mine into 4:
Priority #1:
Have at the very least a 3 day supply of quality (safe to drink) water per person.
Your body can survive a lot longer without food than it can without water.
The recommended amount is 1 gallon per person per day for drinking / preparing food.
** For more information about water storage click here

Priority #2:
Have a well stocked pantry

 

A well stocked pantry, in my opinion, contains enough food for you and your family to eat comfortably for at least 2-4 weeks (preferably up to 3 months).

What I mean by eating comfortably is having food that you regularly eat.

Every family eats differently, so every family will have different types of food.

 

My personal pantry contains:

Fresh, frozen, bottled and canned Fruits, Vegetables, and Meats

Baking Goods: flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, etc.

Grains: pasta, cereal, wheat, rice, oats, cornmeal, etc.

Treats and Snacks: crackers, chips, candy, granola bars, etc.

Spices: having a variety of spices will help tremendously in making what food you do have taste better, as well as Condiments.

Fats and Oils: shortening, butter, and oils are needed to prepare several types of dishes, and can add great flavor to foods.

Convenience Items: canned soups, stews, chili, instant mashed potatoes, etc.  Meal in a can type of things.

In addition to the above mentioned, fridge and freezer items should also be considered pantry staples.

A pantry staple (to me) means that my family uses it on a daily/weekly/ monthly basis.
If you don't eat it regularly, don't make it a top priority.

Priority #3:
Up to a 1 year supply of food storage.
This category combines continually adding to your 'pantry', as well as the introduction of longer-term storage items.
This would be a good time to consider adding to your water supply.
This is also when you want to take into account things like powdered milk and powdered eggs.
Butter and Cheese can be purchased in powder form or canned.
Freeze dried and dehydrated foods would also be good additions.
 Fresh and frozen fruits, vegetables and meats would be replaced with Bottled and Canned versions.
 This list can go on and on.
The key is to find a way to store foods that you already eat for longer periods of time - whether it be seeds for your garden, bottled/canned foods, dehydrated, frozen, etc.

Priority #4:
Long-term Emergency Only Food Storage

If there ever came a time when you had to really rely solely on your food storage for an entire year, this priority would probably overlap with the last one.
 You would be combining the long-term storage items listed above, but also include items that have an extremely long shelf life (20-30 years).
I am talking large amounts of wheat, white rice, dried beans, etc.

This category also includes things like MRE's (meals ready to eat).
Survival food, if you will.
At this point I am not thinking about comfort, convenience, or even nutrition.
This is strictly a 'stay alive' menu.

Which again brings me back to the importance of water.
You are now getting to a point where almost everything you eat requires it - unless you want to be chewing on raw rice...

However, it is important to note that several pantry items will last much longer than just a year.
The average shelf life of canned goods is 5-7 years.
Several long-term food storage items can last 5-10 years.
Several items can (and will) lose their nutritional value over time, but still maintain life-sustaining qualities.

This all eventually ties into my last rule.

RULE #5: Eat What You Store
Unless you intend to have large amounts of food go bad,
or give older food items away as you replace them with others,
you are going to have to learn to eat what you store.

This can be intimidating for some people, and I have discovered that this is more of a personal preference for me than it is for others.

I don't like the idea of storing something I am not going to use - even if it is just for an emergency.
There are several items that can be used sparingly, over time, without having to taste the full effects of 'food storage'.
For instance, powdered milk and eggs can be added to recipes, allowing you to gradually rotate through your supply without having to sacrifice any taste differences.

Another reason I find this beneficial is that it allows you (and your family) to become accustomed to the food(s), both your body and your palate.

Lastly, it gives you the necessary experience.  For example, if there came a time that you needed to use your dehydrated/freeze dried/canned foods, having the knowledge of how to prepare them, what types of meals to prepare them with, etc. would be a huge stress reliever in an emergency.

Hopefully you found some of this information to be useful.
Like I said before, these are just the major things I think about when planning my food storage.
So much of it is situational.  The point is to start!

Water Storage

Water storage should be the #1 priority of any food storage system.

Your body can survive a lot longer without food than it can without water.

Not only that, but a lot of the foods we store (and eat) require water to be prepared.

Why store water?

During times of serious emergency, the normal water supply to your home may be cut off or become polluted.  In this type of situation, stored water will be your lifeline.

There is a lot that can be written about water storage.
This post will cover recommended amounts, water storage containers, storage conditions, and how often rotation is necessary.

So, how much do you need?

A normal, active person needs to drink at least two quarts of water each day (1/2 gallon).

Hot environments can easily double that amount.

Children, nursing mothers, and ill people could require even more.

When getting started, remember that anything is better than nothing.

The general rule of thumb is 1 gallon per person per day.

It is recommended to have at the very least a 3 day supply of water per person in your household.

Ideally, having a 2 week supply of water should be your minimum goal (more is always better).

The average water bottle holds ~16oz., or 2 cups. 

Which means that a case of 24 water bottles = 48 cups (or 3 gallons).

Conveniently, one case of 24 water bottles is the perfect amount for 1 person to have a gallon of water per day for 3 days.

They also run anywhere from $2-5 per case, so they are very affordable.

CONTAINERS:
The containers you choose to store your water in will ensure the safety and potability of your water.
That is why I recommend at least a 3 day supply for each person in bottled water.
Purchased bottled water ensures that you will not have to worry about contamination or purification.

Good water-storage containers are airtight, breakage resistant, and heavy enough to hold water.
They should stack well (or at least stand upright), and have a lining that won't rust or affect the flavor of the water.

One of the best options for large amounts of water storage are 55 gallon barrels/drums:

One for each member of the family would be an excellent goal to have.

For more information on how to use 55 gallon water barrels, click here.

Smaller amounts of water containers should be stored for convenience.

(55 gallon drums can easily be emptied into smaller amounts as needed with a siphon or hose).

I would recommend 5 gallon sized containers:

These are easy to move around, and can be purchased with a spout:

The spout turns on and off, allowing the container to be used in place of your kitchen sink or bathtub.
I would recommend having at least 2 of these (one for the kitchen, and one for the bathroom).  Ideally, this would be good for each room in your house that you currently have running water in).

You can also choose to re-use certain containers you already have for your water storage.

If you do this, use only food-grade containers (containers that once contained food).

Do not use plastic milk jugs.  They do not seal well and tend to become brittle over time.
Do not use containers previously used to store non-food products.
Do not use glass.  They do not transport well; fragile.

Small containers made of PETE plastic or heavier plastic buckets or drums will work well for water storage.  (All containers used for water storage should be PETE containers).
If the container is a PETE container, it will have a symbol like this printed or embedded on the container:

It may have a different number in the triangle, and may have PETE written, but it's all good (I'll have to cover that more fully later).

To thoroughly clean containers, wash with hot, soapy water.  Rinse completely.
Make a sanitizing solution (1 tsp. of liquid bleach to 1 quart of water) and pour into container.  Swish around, being sure to cover every surface (including the inside of the lid).
Rinse completely again.
Fill with water and seal tightly (be sure not to touch the inside of the lid.

Label and store.
(This type of process should also be used when filling 55 gallon drums (as explained in the link above), and for the 5 gallon buckets).

Remember that water is going to be needed for several things, not just for drinking.

Old liquid laundry detergent bottles can be filled for instant washing water.

Liquid dish soap, hand soap, etc. can be filled with water as well.
Bleach bottles are not appropriate for storing water for drinking or cooking, but can be used for several other things.
If you have a container that isn't food-grade, you can use it to store water for other purposes.

STORAGE CONDITIONS:
Easiest to remember: Store in a cool, dark place.

More specific instructions:
 Temperature:
- The colder and darker the better - keep away from light and heat.
- Be mindful of freezing; ice expands, so make sure there is enough headspace (at least 9" in 55 gallon drums) if freezing is a possibility.
Most unopened water bottles will not break if frozen, but double check your brand by freezing one bottle first.

Location:
- Store water where potential leakage would not damage your home or apartment.
- Protect from light and heat.
- Keep containers (even 55 gallon drums) off of concrete.
- Water stored in plastic containers should not be stored near gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances, as vapors could permeate the plastic and affect the water.

ROTATION
Just like all food storage items, water needs to be rotated.
This includes bottled water.

For simplicity reasons, I will just say that in most cases, the container itself goes bad before the water does.

However, any water is better than no water.
Purifying it will be easier than trying to find it (but that is a different post).

Try and use all bottled water by the date printed on the bottles, replacing as necessary.
55 gallon drums are recommended to be rinsed and refilled anually.
All other home-prepared water storage containers (including the 5 gallon containers) are recommended to be rinsed and refilled every 6 months.

Remember, these are just recommendations.
Truthfully, I haven't rinsed / refilled any of my water storage containers.  Ever.
My in-laws recently tasted the 10+ year old water from their 55 gallon drum, and noticed no difference in taste or quality.

Also, the amount of '1 gallon per person per day' includes water for drinking AND for food preparation.
If you have to boil water to make rice, for instance, boiling = purifying, so save the bottled water just for drinking.
Our other stored water supplies can be used for food preparation, cleaning, washing, etc.