Saturday, July 17, 2010

Garden Pest Treatment

As with all of my notes, they will be continually updated as I get new information.
This is what I have so far.


Garden Pest Treatment

  • ANTS:

    • Ant Be Gone: Sprinkle on the mound, or unearth the tunnels and sprinkle inside

  • APHIDS:

    • Nemoil (Triple Action Plus):

      • Powdery Mildew

      • Kills Mites

      • Kills 'sucking' insects

  • BEATLES AND GRASSHOPPERS:

    • Seven (dust) or Carboral (spray)

      • spray or dust around the crown and down each vine

  • DEER:

    • Human hair WILL NOT keep the deer away

    • Some sprays will work momentarily, but are not very reliable

    • 8' fence

      • Deer can jump an 8' fence, but they will not do it for food

  • EARWIGS:

    • Tango trap / Tango foot:

      • Spray the bottom stem and around the ground of fruit trees - earwigs get stuck in the spray and cannot make it up to the fruit

  • FIRE BITE:

    • Streptomiosin cures it if it comes from the air

  • GOPHERS:

    • The most effective way to get rid of a gopher is to use gopher bate and a probe

      • Poke holes in the middle of each mound, and around the edges

      • When you feel the dirt 'give' a few inches, you know you have found the run

      • Insert the gopher bate in both sides of the run

        • Keep in mind that there will be runs connected to each hole or mound

        • poke holes in-between mounds to find the run

    • Sometimes gophers plug up the entrance of their holes, as well as down both sides of the run, making it difficult to reopen.

    • Gopher traps

      • You need to be able to get into the gopher hole

      • You must leave the hole open (gophers do not like the light coming in - they will come to plug it up)

      • Most holes are locatednear the side of the mound, not in the middle

      • You need to leave a trap on both sides of the run

      • Stake the trap to the ground; cats will come and take the gopher (along with your trap)

      • For example:


    • Gopher bombs are not recommended for our area (UT) - the soil is too porous for them to work successfully

  • MOSQUITOES:

    • Spray the source (the pond, etc.) with Malathion

    • If you live close to open water, you cannot completely exterminate all of the mosquitoes

  • RACCOONS AND SKUNKS:

    • Buy a skunk trap (wire gated trap)

    • Use fish smelling cat-food as bait

    • For Racoons:

      • Take it far away from your home and drop it off

    • For Skunks:

      • You must put the cage behind an object, so that when the skunk is trapped it will not see you coming and spray

      • Shoot it and bury it (there is no way to transport it without getting sprayed)

  • WORMS:

    • B.T. (Thuricide)

      • it is non-toxic

  • WESTERN CHERRY FRUIT FLY:

    •  Bugs live in the cherries: The cherries fall to the ground, and they stay in the ground throughout the winter.  In the spring they climb the tree and infest the cherries again.
    • The best cure is to stop the cycle:
      • Gather all of the cherries that fall to the ground and throw them away

  • WEEDS:
    • If spraying (Roundup) weeds in the garden:
      • Use a large piece of cardboard to shield the plants that you want to survive
      • This technique is faster and easier than hoeing
        • Hoeing brings up all of the wed seeds, putting them in place for germination and causes more weeds
    • To get rid of huge rooted weeds (like morning glory):
      • Spray with Round up, but first:
        • Water and fertilize the weed to equalize the size of the top with the size of the roots
        • Wait until it almost blooms
        • Spra with roundup
          • Roundup spreads through the weed in order to kill it; but it must hava a large enough top to absorb enough spray to spread through the large root system
    • For horse-rod weeds:
      • Use Casaron
Products
MALATHION:
- Malathion is used for several bugs/pests
- It is toxic: must use it early in the season so it wears of before you harvest

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